In early spring, pockets of snow shelter in the shadowed crevices of the high sierra. Brisk breezes, still carrying a tinge of winter’s chill, bend the boughs of mighty pine trees and spread their fragrance throughout the forests of Madera.

Arroyo de Garabato

To the north of town, at the narrow chasm of Arroyo de Garabato, the sun casts its first light on streaked, salmon-colored cliffs that plunge to the river below. Here, the cave dwellings of Cuarenta Casas are tucked into the rocky overhangs of these massive walls. The Cuarenta Casas archaeolgical site is the most well known and accessible of the cave and cliff dwellings in northern Mexico. No one is sure why they were built but their location high above the river with an encompassing view of both the sierra and the canyon suggests that they may have been guard posts along an old trade route that linked Paquime with the Pacific coast.

The great Paquime culture flourished as the main trade and ceremonial center of northern Mexico around 1300 AD. Its trade routes extended to the Pacific, the Gulf of Mexico and to other cultural centers to the north such as Mesa Verde in Colorado and Chaco Canyon in New Mexico. The routes to the Pacific followed the Piedras Verdes River to the south and connected with the rivers that flow to the Pacific by way of smaller arroyos and canyons. Among these is the Huapoca Canyon to the west of the town of Madera. The Huapoca Canyon is not among the deepest of the Sierra Tarahumara but it possesses the most archaeological interest.

Cave Dwellings at Cuarenta Casas

There are five main cave communities near Madera. To the north are Cuarenta Casas and Cueva del Puente. At the beginning of the 16^th century, explorer Alvar Nunez Cabeza wrote, "…and here by the side of the mountain, we forged our way inland more than 50 leagues and there found forty houses (cuarenta casas)…" It is not certain if there were actually forty houses as fewer remain today. They can be viewed across the chasm from the visitor’s hut and are not accessible to the public except for Cueva de las Ventanas which has some 1000 year old Paquime-style adobe dwellings with characteristic T-shaped doorways and stucco floors. Cueva de las Ventanas is larger than Cueva del Puente and they both require about an hour’s hike one way along steep but well maintained paths.

Directly to the west of Madera are the Anasazi caves and Cueva Grande. Although they are fairly close on a map, poor roads and unkept trails make it difficult to visit both sites on a one day trip. There are supposed to be guides available but this is not always the case so it is best for visitors to be accompanied by someone who knows the way. The Anasazi caves consist of the Cueva de la Serpiente and Nido del Aguila. Cueva de la Serpiente is the larger of the two with 14 adobe dwellings that are over a thousand years old. Nido del Aguila has only one dwelling that clings precariously to the edge of a sheer cliff under a rocky overhang that gives meaning to its name, the Eagle’s Nest. The Anasazi caves are considered by some to be the most impressive of the cliff dwellings. This is due to the well preserved structures, the integrity of the site itself which has not been as vandalized as other sites and the magnificent views high above the broad expanse of the Huapoca Canyon.

Cueva Grande

Across from the Anasazi caves, the descent from the sierra to the barranca is more gradual. Cueva Grande lies hidden within the convoluted folds of the land and is embraced by the branches of tall trees. The mouth of the cave is further obscured by a waterfall that cascades off the top of the cave to a pool and stream below. Even in drier months when the little waterfall is reduced to a trickle, the fine mist of water captures the sunlight to paint a delicate, shimmery rainbow. Its beauty, seclusion and constant water supply must have been idyllic to the people who lived in this parched, rugged terrain. A path rises from the pool to the cave’s entrance just behind the waterfall. There are two 800 year old, two-story dwellings that provide good examples of the construction techniques of that time. There is also a round grain storage area behind the structure closest to the mouth of the cave.

The road forks just before crossing the suspension bridge at the bottom of the Huapoca Canyon on the way to Cueva Grande. The left fork descends to Agua Caliente de Huapoca, a small thermal spring on the river bank. Its warm waters flow to a little soaking pool and continues on to the river where there is a natural swimming hole. Agua Caliente de Huapoca is reputed to cure a variety of ailments but it is perfect for sore feet after walking along the uneven trail to Cueva Grande.

Huapoca Canyon

It is difficult to find a taxi driver to make the trip to La Rancheria where there are some fine ruins that cover an extensive area at the base of the Sirupa Canyon. Located 50 Km south of Madera (a two hour drive one way), there is a lengthy walk (another two hours each way) along a rough trail. A daytrip to La Rancheria requires a minimum of 9 to 10 hours with relatively little time to explore. The Sirupa Canyon is better visited on an overnight trip which also allows time to visit the site of the old San Andres de Sirupa Mission. It was destroyed during the Tarahumara uprising of 1690 and all that remains is the shell of a hacienda that was constructed there in 1830. However, the surrounding landscape is particularly beautiful and makes the half hour trip from the village of Sirupa worthwhile. Nearby, the thermal springs of Agua Caliente de Sirupa gush from the Sirupa River bank that is a good spot for camping.