Hidden in a corner of southwest Anatolia where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean and the Golgeli Daglari swoops down to the sea, the estuarine delta of the Dalyan River supports a number of small fishing and farming communities as well as a nature and wildlife sanctuary. It is noted for its ancient Caunian ruins and the 4th Century BC Lycian-style temple-tombs carved into the cliffs above the river but one must linger long enough to discover its many opportunities for adventure.

Dalyan

Your first exploration of the Dalyan area should be a visit to the ruins of Caunos. It was an independent city state that is thought to have been founded by Caunos, son of Miletos. Herodotus characterizes Caunians as a distinct people who emigrated from Crete in the late Minoan era. Eventually, they assimilated the language of the neighboring Carians and adopted the funerary customs of both the Carians and the Lycians whose kingdoms were roughly bordered by the waterway now known as the Dalyan River. Subsequent conquests have resulted in mixed ruins that include 4th Century BC walls built by King Mausolus of Caria, a Roman bath and a Byzantine basilica. The silting of the ancient harbor brought an end to the affluence of Caunos which was dependent on the export of salt, fish and slaves while rivaling Ephesus as a wealthy seaport. Eventually the city was abandoned. The theater offers a good view of the ruins but the citadel, high on the hill beyond the old defensive walls, commands a sweeping panorama of the countryside.

Directly to the north, Lake Koycegiz is obscured by the pine clad precipice that overhangs the river. Cultivated fields extend from the base of the citadel to the cliffs where Carian style tombs at the lower levels give way to the Lycian style tombs carved higher into the rock.

Lycian Tombs

The simple Carian tombs are merely rock cavities that were covered with stone lids. The elaborate Lycian tombs are carved with the facades of Greek temples and have benches inside on which the bodies were laid. The cluster of tombs to the left when facing the cliffs are easily reached by climbing the rocks on the western bank of the river. These rocky hills continue to the west before sloping down to a small lagoon that was once a part of the Mediterranean. The dirt road from Dalyan to Caunos can be seen as it passes the Roman bath westwards before turning south towards Candir, a small village located on the lagoon. There are few trees along this 20 min. walk to Candir but the path can be followed for two more hours through pine forests to Maden Iskele and along the coast to the pretty seaside village of Ekincik.

There are excellent views to the south where the river meanders through the marshy delta to meet the Mediterranean Sea at Iztuzu beach, a nesting place for the endangered loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta). Great clumps of reeds line the river and its distributaries and provide refuge to waterfowls and other birds. Mullet and sea bass are plentiful and are an integral part of the area's economy.

Dalyan Delta With Fishing Weirs Across The River

The town derives its name from the Turkish word dalyanlar that denotes a particular type of fish trap in which poles are erected across a river with nets strung between them. These fishing weirs were used by Caunians three thousand years ago and can still be seen near the mouth of the Dalyan River.

In the distance, gulets ply their way along the coastline exploring Turkey's numerous coves and inlets that are often inaccessible by land. The famed Blue Voyage extends from Izmir to Antalya but most visitors prefer a shortened version. Traditionally fishing boats, gulets are now designed with every convenience for visitors and tours can be arranged for whatever period you may desire. A cruise that takes in any portion of the Blue Voyage is highly recommended. If your time is limited, then consider a two day cruise or the one day, 12 island tour in the Gulf of Fethiye. There are ruins to explore, secluded beaches, fantastic scenery and turquoise water.

The eastern and northeastern vista captures the river winding its way through the town of Dalyan towards Lake Koycegiz and the foothills of the Boga Dagi. Cotton, corn and vegetables grow in neat rows especially along the river banks where water can be diverted for irrigation while greenhouses seem to overflow with tomatoes, eggplants and peppers. There is a charm to the rural life of Dalyan that continues unfazed in spite of the demands of tourism. Farmers have a welcoming smile for visitors and will generously take the time to show them around and to point out the special type of grass that is used to feed the ostriches that are being raised experimentally in the area. In the summertime, dawn arrives early for these hard working people and they take advantage of the cooler mornings before the onslaught of the midday sun. Women usually tend the larger fields as hired hands while entire families work their smaller family plots. They will have been at work for hours before the town begins to stir.

The Dalyan River

Lake Koycegiz is most popular for the mud baths along its southern shore. They are prescribed for those suffering from rheumatic, dermatological and gynecological problems as well as physical exhaustion. Treatment consists of covering yourself with a layer of mud and then soaking in the adjacent hot, mineral water pool. Regardless of your afflictions or lack of them, it is irrefutable that this is a most relaxing way to end a busy summer day. There are boat tours to the mud baths on Lake Koycegiz but those who want to soak in solitude should ask about the small mud bath on a canal by the river that can be reached only be kayaks or canoes.

With its thick reeds, Lake Koycegiz provides a rich spawning ground for mullet and sea bass. It is a part of the wildlife sanctuary that follows the river through the marshlands to Iztuzu Beach. Many species of birds have been sighted here including herons, cranes, kestrels, storks, egrets, kingfishers and less frequently, the endangered sea eagle. It is this tranquil scenery and natural beauty that frames the lakeside village of Koycegiz on the northern shore. Monday is the busiest day when local farmers set up their weekly open air market. Besides a cornucopia of fresh fruits and vegetables, there is usually a good selection of dried fruits, honey and unusual spices. The spacious promenade along the lakeshore is ideal for a leisurely stroll and there are benches and tea gardens for those who want to linger. Boats can be hired to explore the lake or to visit Old Koycegiz which was abandoned in 1867 due to persistent flooding. It sits on the northern bank of the Yuvarlak stream nearby. A few families have remained and there are some old buildings from Ottoman times.

Just beyond Koycegiz to the north, a secondary asphalt road gives way to a dirt road that climbs the Boga Dagi to the high plateau village (yayla) of Agla. Shepherds still accompany their flocks along centuries old paths to these mountain pastures in the springtime. The remaining families now travel by motorized vehicles to the village where permanent housing, electricity and well stocked stores have reduced the need for the goat haired tents and provisions that were once required for the annual transhumance. The cool mountain air of Agla attracts those who want to escape the fierce summer heat and to enjoy the Mahya Festivities that are held on the first Thursday following the 13th of August.

From Agla, there is a very scenic,18 km trek through pine forests to the yayla at Cicekbaba, the highest point (2295m) in the Sandras Dagi. There are no facilities at Cicekbaba so trekkers must be prepared to carry a full pack. For the

Old Roman Bridge

truly adventurous, there are paths that descend the mountain to the villages of Otmarlar and Cayhisar. Both villages are connected by a dirt road that continues via Demirli to Akkopru where a Roman bridge spans the Dalaman River. Legend has it that there is hidden treasure in the bridge which has survived the assaults of generations of villagers. The woods around the bridge are very pretty and the river's bank makes a tranquil spot for a picnic and to watch the rafts and kayaks that pass by. A good road returns westward across the Yuvarlak stream to the Mugla-Fethiye highway and the Dalyan area. Canyon tours explore this spring-fed stream that flows into the Dalaman River in a 6 hr. adventure that combines trekking, rock scrambling and swimming through cool rock pools.

All roads to Dalyan will take you past the fragrant "frankincense tree," (Liquidambar orientalis). These trees are unique to southwestern Anatolia and a large forest is located along the way to Hamitkoy, a small village to the west of Koycegiz. Although it was botanically unknown in the west until the mid 19th century, its oil has been long prized in the east for medicinal and cosmetic purposes and is reputed to be the "balm of Gilead." Liquid storax has been exported since ancient times to China, India and the Middle East. Its extraction is carried out mainly by Yoruks, a nomadic tribe of eastern Anatolia. The young wood of the tree is injured to cause the formation of oil ducts in which the storax is produced. Strips of the inner bark are then removed for pressing. Many of the trees exhibit scars to the trunk and it is a part of this traditional skill to know how much damage can be inflicted without killing the tree. Today, the government is sponsoring reforestation projects to replace the frankincense trees that were once so plentiful in the region.

Best Times to Go:
In southwest Anatolia, the tourist season lasts from the beginning of April to the end of October. However, April to mid June and September to October are the best months for avoiding the intense heat, summer crowds and mosquitoes.